RadioRoryEverything I know about Cambodian temples came from Angelina Jolie’s “Tomb Raider” movie, and I never saw it!
There is so much to see over such a large area that I need professional help.
A stable of tuk tuck drivers is on stand-by at my hotel and it even offers a menu of itineraries so you can hire them for a single trip up to a whole day. They advertise the person as a guide but really, it’s just a driver who won’t scam you. Too much.
I signed up for a day and a half of travel. It included a sunset viewing at Phnom Bakheng and then sunrise at the big Angkor Wat temple followed by a day of ruin hopping. I also wanted to see the Landmine Museum, even though it isn’t near anything.
Here’s the breakdown: Phnom Bakheng (or Bakheng Hill) dates back to the 9th century, 200 years before Angkor Wat was built. You have to get there early for either sunrise or sunset because they limit the number of people allowed at the top of the pyramid structure. You will sit around A LOT in the heat with no shade while waiting for the sun to do its thing. (OK, technically it’s the Earth doing its thing, but you know what I mean). Bring water, sunscreen (yes, even at sunset), and bug spray too. The temples are chock full of tour groups and younger kids who are bored to death. On the plus side, scaffolding covers these ancient steps so it’s easy to climb, even if it’s a bit steep.
People who were stuck in line and missed the sunset were allowed to climb up as people came down, but boy were they disappointed!
They say it’s the view that makes this Hindu temple stand out. Honestly, I could have skipped this. It’s fine, I’m glad I did it, but it’s not a “must see.” I thought the 15-mile drive was the more interesting part of the trip. I did manage to meet some nice people and sharing my sunscreen made me a hero to a handful of fellow Americans.
My full day of temple hopping starts well before dawn. I’m using the multi-day temple-hopping ticket that I picked up last night before the sunset event. There are scattered police checkpoints on roads that lead to various temples. You’ll have to show the pass several times, so keep it handy. My hotel, which arranged my trip, packed a nice breakfast box for me so I could snack while bouncing around in the back of the tuk tuk. A couple hard boiled eggs, apples, and rolls go a long way!
First stop: Angkor Wat. The 400 acre complex dates to the 12th century and is the largest religious site in the world. It’s four-times the size of Vatican City (thanks Google!) and is a must-see. The sunrise tour is apparently popular on the group travel circuit as there are dozens and dozens and DOZENS of coach buses parked outside spewing diesel fumes into the dark, polluted air.
My driver let me out, pointed toward the temple, and said “Come back at 8:30.” It’s about 5:30 now and sunrise is in an hour. Armed with my trusty flashlight (I prefer the convertible lantern type for versatility) I followed the crowd onto the temple grounds. All the tour groups went to the left side so I made a sharp right. As the sun rose, I noticed that there were a lot of vendors set up on the left side, selling paintings, t-shirts, ice cream, etc. A lot of the food was sold in Styrofoam clam shell boxes. I couldn’t help to think that the disposable box will probably outlast the 900 year old temple! (I’ll spare you my rant on litter/plastic for later).
Despite the crowd, it’s beautiful and peaceful as the sun comes up. Eventually, the glow generated by people taking pics with their iPads is replaced by the rays of the rising sun. Soon, we’re all allowed to enter the complex and have a look for ourselves.
Beyond the amazing structure, there isn’t much to see at Angkor Wat. I don’t mean that in a negative way. It’s just that once you’re in, you’re there. I loved spending a couple of hours watching how the changing light reflects off the ancient temple.
Now, it’s a little after 8 and I’ve got a good 15 minute hike before I reunite with my driver.
This is where being a very tall, very white guy comes in handy. He spots me from a mile away and we’re off to the next temple.
When I started this post, I thought it would be just one page. Let’s just say there are a LOT more pictures to come….